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As the weather finally turns to the hot summer time weather a landscape
(especially a new one) must be prepared to survive the extreme heat and dry
conditions we generally have in July and August here in New Jersey. Many new
and even established landscapes develop a host of problems from these conditions
and our mismanagement. Water and how we apply and use it will determine
our success.
Watering the proper amount at the right times are key. Use a simple rain gage
to measure how much water you are putting down. This is a good idea for
automatic as well as manual watering systems. Most lawns are watered too often
and for too short a time. These frequent light water applications create a
shallow “lazy” root system. If watering must be stopped because of draught
restrictions or other reasons the lawn will most certainly be drought damaged.
By using a rain gage and applying about 1” of water to your lawn 1-2 times per
week depending on soil and site conditions you will have a lawn that develops a
much deeper root system as the roots are forced to grow down as the soils dry
out between water applications. When you use a rain gage place several around
the lawn so you can find areas that may be getting less water than others.
A manual old fashioned sprinkler is easy to move and adjust but an automatic
system will require a professional to make the proper corrections.
Much of the above is true with your landscape plantings. The biggest mistake is
to assume that the lawn watering over spraying into planting beds is adequate
water for the plantings. Unfortunately many lower cost automatic systems do just
this and cause many problems. Trees and shrubs require a much deeper watering
and less frequently as well. In many other cases people will over water shrub
beds and cause the root rot. This can be a real problem in a heavy clay soil
with little or no drainage. I would recommend investing in a soil probe. This
tool is forced into the ground and pulls a soil core from the ground. The soil
including moisture levels can be checked easily this way. These probes are
great for turf and shrub, tree, perennial, and annual beds. The soil probe is
an invaluable tool of the landscape professional.
How about if you do not water and the lawn becomes brown. If your lawn is
reasonably healthy it will probably just become dormant. In most cases the lawn
will green up after a heavy soaking rain or two. If your lawn does go dormant
do not continue to mow it and keep all traffic of it as this will beak the
brittle grass and cause a lot of damage. This goes if you have a party in your
yard as well. Try to give the lawn a good deep watering several days before the
event and afterwards as well to lessen the impact of heavy traffic on a dry
lawn. Trees, shrubs, and perennials have many differing drought tolerance
levels. Depending on how established they are and the soil structure they are
in will effect how plants will tolerate heat and drought.
Watering of a lawn should be done in the early morning. Watering in the evening
or night may cause fungus problems with moisture sitting on the grass in the hot
steamy night. Afternoon watering can be counter productive with the amount of
evaporation and even damaging with water droplets acting as little magnifying
glasses burning leave tissues.
Watering the lawn and shrubs is not as simple as many think. Incorrect watering
may cause thousands of dollars damage to a valuable landscape. The good news is
there are many resources to help. Your landscape professional can advise you as
well as a licensed irrigation contractor. There is always the Rutgers
Cooperative Extension as well as countless websites and books that can help
guide you in your watering and general care of your landscape.