fgfhd21tv
04-01-2011, 09:26 PM
Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset House - Telegraph
[标签:作者]
[标签:来源]
[标签:时间]
Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset House
A London retrospective will show off Maison Martin Margiela's 20 years of radical devise,mbt panda sandals (http://www.mbtshoeforsales.com/mbt-panda-shoes-c-27.html), writes Harriet Quick.
BY Harriet Quick |19 May 2010
Martin Margiela joys and confounds in equal measures. Yet the now retired designer, who exercised at the prestigious Antwerp Academy and broke through as part of the infamous Antwerp Six group (which contained Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester ) in the late Eighties, has bewitched the design world for more than 20 years, changing not only its shape (amplified shoulders, trompe l'oeil effects, recycled fabrics, frayed brims and men's suiting for women are all part of his lexicon), but its action.
Related articles Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset HouseOver the years: Maison Martin MargielaShowstudio.com's 'Blackwhite' exhibitionBrowns' 40th annual partyChristian Dior 'Cruise' collection 2011 in Shanghai
Throughout this time, Margiela, who is now in his early fifties, remained - and still remains - nameless (much to the chagrin of the press), and profoundly provocative in the path he shows. Disused subway stations, cafés, containers by the Seine, empty warehouses, "faceless" models, eerie melody and no front-row seats are means secondhand to communicate his concepts, which value the "accessory" in the mediocre, and community over hierarchy. To that end, the employees of his name, Maison Martin Margiela, all amusement white coats (the uniform of traditional couture ateliers) and statements are made from the collective, rather than personal, voice. You both "got it" and were in the Margiela club, or were out.
The exclusivity was beyond emphasised by the fuss-free labelling of the clothing - a white label distinguished by 4 white stitches at the neckline. Such subtlety and gamesmanship, not apt mention exceptional tailoring, has fascinated the inspired, the intelligentsia and A-listers in droves: Tilda Swinton and French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld are fans, and Marc Jacobs and former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane are amid the numerous who have taken inspiration.
The Margiela elegant has all attempted a radical choice to what we might deem as chic and "designer", yet his outlook is not anti-fashion (his business, now approaching to perfume, nice jewellery and furniture, is hugely successful), merely prefer one option. And it is this enigma that a current show at Somerset House wishes to capture in an arresting display namely saddles the huge themes and playfulness of 20 years.
Curator Claire Catterall has a big task on her hands. Before her lay boxes of museums, sacks of white confetti and silver sequins, and a room of junk-shop chairs that need to be wrapped in the house's specific white cloth. There are too mammoth polystyrene cut-outs of the members of Maison Margiela who will salute visitors once they have purchased stamps from a whitewashed caravan in the courtyard. (The incipient open car that sits in the entrance of the HQ in Paris is a paradigm shift from the wenge wood and honey blankets of designer-land.) Catterall is too in negotiations with the council to wrap the trees that line the embankment entrance to Somerset House in white like a Christo installation.
"Margiela is 1 of the maximum influential and cutting-edge designers in fashion,red tory burch flats (http://www.cheaptoryburchs.com.com/tory-burch-reva-flats-c-1.html)," says Catterall. "Looking behind, one can see how inspiring his work has been - the show isn't just a showcase, but an smart exam of the house. The idea is to feel inundated in Margiela world." The acclaimed exhibition,best price mbt shoes (http://www.mbtshoeforsales.com/), which formerly showed in Antwerp and Munich, has been accustomed to the ############## space. Margiela's adore of trompe l'oeils is reflected right through to the decor, with images pasted over wall and screenprinted on to curtains.
Step into Margiela's world and you begin to experience things differently. Nothing is quite what it seems in the unmarked, whitewashed marts, which are now located everywhere from LA to London, and the same is true of this exhibition. Intricately-curated capsules take you through Margiela's peculiar world, where you will see giant suits and sweaters that are perfectly upscaled versions of original Barbie, Ken and GI Joe outfits from his autumn/winter 1994 collection. Another place shows the shift in shoulder proportions, ranging from the super-skinny and firm, to the ballasted shapes that have been all the wrath these quondam two seasons. In the premier room, there is a walls of his famous tabi boots , a heeled design based on the one-toed socks worn in Japan to accommodate flip-flops.
On a rail hangs a array of raw-edged nylon dresses with unnerving trompe l'oeil photographic prints of the pleats and patterns, folds and darts taken from a clothes hanging on a real woman body. The Artisanal accumulation - Margiela's edition of couture - namely a sight to behold, with amazing chips meticulously amassed from found objects and discarded matters, such as a jacket made out of blonde wigs (spring/summer 2009) and a halter top crafted from white kid-leather gloves (spring/summer 2001) which seem to caress the body.
But what may seem perverse was often the outcome of not money and rabid imaginations. Scenographer Bob Verhelst, who has worked with Margiela since the get-go and is collaborating on the Somerset House installation, recalls the early days. "I worked to Paris to penetrate his collection - I think there must have been only a handful of people working there, so I offered my help." Two weeks ahead the next show, he obtained a shriek. "Martin had this idea inspired by his mama and aunts during the warfare who would make their clothes from antique scarves as nobody another was accessible, so the entire collection was made out of headscarves.
"I aided with everything from the invitations, to the street hurling and the make-up - we drew the patterns from the scarves aboard to the models' rind." Verhelst, who worked with Margiela because nine years, witnessed the growth and mutation of the house. "Another period, we had the motif to handwrite the invitations and personally sign them all. There were 2,000 letters, and I meditation there must have merely been six signatures."
"It's rare for a fashion house to sustain desirability and kudos while its namesake creative departs [Margiela left final year],tory burch sale shoes (http://www.cheaptoryburchs.com), but the team at Margiela is well and really catching the brand's heritage to new levels. With timeless classics and chic quirks, the label still has its cult following and continues to paint in youngster with its achingly chilly vibe," says Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant to Liberty and an avid MMM flare.
Maison Martin Margiela creates an unnerving, radical kind of beauty,Indianapolis Colts Jerseys (http://www.cheapjerseysales.com/youth-jerseys-indianapolis-colts-c-34_40.html), one that reserves you wide-eyed with its innovation, humour and sheer audacity. Like Coco Chanel , Cristobal Balenciaga and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Gar?ons , the work operates as a back-current to the mainstream. "As a conceptual designer, you put your work out there and let it be open to interpretations," says Kaat Debo, who conceived and curated the original exhibition in Antwerp. "And there have been many interpretations." Now is the time to find out yourself.
Harriet Quick is mainstream features director of 'Vogue'
Maison Martin Margiela '20': The Exhibition, June 3 - September 5 2010, Somerset House Embankment ##################, London WC2; 020 7845 4600
Check out a selection of Maison Martin Margiela pieces in the Telegraph Fashion Shop
A third jersey or alternate jersey is a sports team's alternate and/or throwback design for the previously established other two jerseys, the home and away outfits. Alternate jerseys are used in all four of the North American major professional sports leagues as well as college sports, semipro leagues, and other sports leagues throughout the world. www.cheapjerseysales.com,Tory Burch (born June 17, 1966; née Robinson) is an American fashion designer, business woman, mother of three, wife (now divorced), and philanthropist who was born, raised and educated in the Philadelphia metropolitan area.www.cheaptoryburchs.com,Tod's Group is an Italian company which produces shoes and other leather goods, and is presided over by businessman Diego Della Valle. It is most famous for its driving shoes.www.cheaptodssale.com
mbt kaya -Herve Leger Skirts (http://www.la-chine.com//)
tori burch channel -« (http://www.la-chine.com//)
buying mbt shoes online - (http://dfsdf01js.bokee.com/viewdiary.235753386.html)
[标签:作者]
[标签:来源]
[标签:时间]
Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset House
A London retrospective will show off Maison Martin Margiela's 20 years of radical devise,mbt panda sandals (http://www.mbtshoeforsales.com/mbt-panda-shoes-c-27.html), writes Harriet Quick.
BY Harriet Quick |19 May 2010
Martin Margiela joys and confounds in equal measures. Yet the now retired designer, who exercised at the prestigious Antwerp Academy and broke through as part of the infamous Antwerp Six group (which contained Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester ) in the late Eighties, has bewitched the design world for more than 20 years, changing not only its shape (amplified shoulders, trompe l'oeil effects, recycled fabrics, frayed brims and men's suiting for women are all part of his lexicon), but its action.
Related articles Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset HouseOver the years: Maison Martin MargielaShowstudio.com's 'Blackwhite' exhibitionBrowns' 40th annual partyChristian Dior 'Cruise' collection 2011 in Shanghai
Throughout this time, Margiela, who is now in his early fifties, remained - and still remains - nameless (much to the chagrin of the press), and profoundly provocative in the path he shows. Disused subway stations, cafés, containers by the Seine, empty warehouses, "faceless" models, eerie melody and no front-row seats are means secondhand to communicate his concepts, which value the "accessory" in the mediocre, and community over hierarchy. To that end, the employees of his name, Maison Martin Margiela, all amusement white coats (the uniform of traditional couture ateliers) and statements are made from the collective, rather than personal, voice. You both "got it" and were in the Margiela club, or were out.
The exclusivity was beyond emphasised by the fuss-free labelling of the clothing - a white label distinguished by 4 white stitches at the neckline. Such subtlety and gamesmanship, not apt mention exceptional tailoring, has fascinated the inspired, the intelligentsia and A-listers in droves: Tilda Swinton and French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld are fans, and Marc Jacobs and former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane are amid the numerous who have taken inspiration.
The Margiela elegant has all attempted a radical choice to what we might deem as chic and "designer", yet his outlook is not anti-fashion (his business, now approaching to perfume, nice jewellery and furniture, is hugely successful), merely prefer one option. And it is this enigma that a current show at Somerset House wishes to capture in an arresting display namely saddles the huge themes and playfulness of 20 years.
Curator Claire Catterall has a big task on her hands. Before her lay boxes of museums, sacks of white confetti and silver sequins, and a room of junk-shop chairs that need to be wrapped in the house's specific white cloth. There are too mammoth polystyrene cut-outs of the members of Maison Margiela who will salute visitors once they have purchased stamps from a whitewashed caravan in the courtyard. (The incipient open car that sits in the entrance of the HQ in Paris is a paradigm shift from the wenge wood and honey blankets of designer-land.) Catterall is too in negotiations with the council to wrap the trees that line the embankment entrance to Somerset House in white like a Christo installation.
"Margiela is 1 of the maximum influential and cutting-edge designers in fashion,red tory burch flats (http://www.cheaptoryburchs.com.com/tory-burch-reva-flats-c-1.html)," says Catterall. "Looking behind, one can see how inspiring his work has been - the show isn't just a showcase, but an smart exam of the house. The idea is to feel inundated in Margiela world." The acclaimed exhibition,best price mbt shoes (http://www.mbtshoeforsales.com/), which formerly showed in Antwerp and Munich, has been accustomed to the ############## space. Margiela's adore of trompe l'oeils is reflected right through to the decor, with images pasted over wall and screenprinted on to curtains.
Step into Margiela's world and you begin to experience things differently. Nothing is quite what it seems in the unmarked, whitewashed marts, which are now located everywhere from LA to London, and the same is true of this exhibition. Intricately-curated capsules take you through Margiela's peculiar world, where you will see giant suits and sweaters that are perfectly upscaled versions of original Barbie, Ken and GI Joe outfits from his autumn/winter 1994 collection. Another place shows the shift in shoulder proportions, ranging from the super-skinny and firm, to the ballasted shapes that have been all the wrath these quondam two seasons. In the premier room, there is a walls of his famous tabi boots , a heeled design based on the one-toed socks worn in Japan to accommodate flip-flops.
On a rail hangs a array of raw-edged nylon dresses with unnerving trompe l'oeil photographic prints of the pleats and patterns, folds and darts taken from a clothes hanging on a real woman body. The Artisanal accumulation - Margiela's edition of couture - namely a sight to behold, with amazing chips meticulously amassed from found objects and discarded matters, such as a jacket made out of blonde wigs (spring/summer 2009) and a halter top crafted from white kid-leather gloves (spring/summer 2001) which seem to caress the body.
But what may seem perverse was often the outcome of not money and rabid imaginations. Scenographer Bob Verhelst, who has worked with Margiela since the get-go and is collaborating on the Somerset House installation, recalls the early days. "I worked to Paris to penetrate his collection - I think there must have been only a handful of people working there, so I offered my help." Two weeks ahead the next show, he obtained a shriek. "Martin had this idea inspired by his mama and aunts during the warfare who would make their clothes from antique scarves as nobody another was accessible, so the entire collection was made out of headscarves.
"I aided with everything from the invitations, to the street hurling and the make-up - we drew the patterns from the scarves aboard to the models' rind." Verhelst, who worked with Margiela because nine years, witnessed the growth and mutation of the house. "Another period, we had the motif to handwrite the invitations and personally sign them all. There were 2,000 letters, and I meditation there must have merely been six signatures."
"It's rare for a fashion house to sustain desirability and kudos while its namesake creative departs [Margiela left final year],tory burch sale shoes (http://www.cheaptoryburchs.com), but the team at Margiela is well and really catching the brand's heritage to new levels. With timeless classics and chic quirks, the label still has its cult following and continues to paint in youngster with its achingly chilly vibe," says Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant to Liberty and an avid MMM flare.
Maison Martin Margiela creates an unnerving, radical kind of beauty,Indianapolis Colts Jerseys (http://www.cheapjerseysales.com/youth-jerseys-indianapolis-colts-c-34_40.html), one that reserves you wide-eyed with its innovation, humour and sheer audacity. Like Coco Chanel , Cristobal Balenciaga and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Gar?ons , the work operates as a back-current to the mainstream. "As a conceptual designer, you put your work out there and let it be open to interpretations," says Kaat Debo, who conceived and curated the original exhibition in Antwerp. "And there have been many interpretations." Now is the time to find out yourself.
Harriet Quick is mainstream features director of 'Vogue'
Maison Martin Margiela '20': The Exhibition, June 3 - September 5 2010, Somerset House Embankment ##################, London WC2; 020 7845 4600
Check out a selection of Maison Martin Margiela pieces in the Telegraph Fashion Shop
A third jersey or alternate jersey is a sports team's alternate and/or throwback design for the previously established other two jerseys, the home and away outfits. Alternate jerseys are used in all four of the North American major professional sports leagues as well as college sports, semipro leagues, and other sports leagues throughout the world. www.cheapjerseysales.com,Tory Burch (born June 17, 1966; née Robinson) is an American fashion designer, business woman, mother of three, wife (now divorced), and philanthropist who was born, raised and educated in the Philadelphia metropolitan area.www.cheaptoryburchs.com,Tod's Group is an Italian company which produces shoes and other leather goods, and is presided over by businessman Diego Della Valle. It is most famous for its driving shoes.www.cheaptodssale.com
mbt kaya -Herve Leger Skirts (http://www.la-chine.com//)
tori burch channel -« (http://www.la-chine.com//)
buying mbt shoes online - (http://dfsdf01js.bokee.com/viewdiary.235753386.html)